Panca Kedar Yātrā

Pictures of the 5 Śiva Temples in the Himalayas known as the Panca (5) Kedars (Name of Śiva)

Returning from three weeks in India is always difficult to put into words, and this yātrā I had the privilege of trekking to extremely remote Śiva temples in the Himalayas at high elevations with my beloved teacher, Saundaryāmbikā, and saṅgha. The Panca Kedars are 5 Śiva temples associated with the Pandavas from the Mahabharata. The Pandavas are 5 brothers who go to Śiva after they won the war against their cousins to ask for forgiveness for killing their family members. Śiva doesn’t want to see them and hides as a bull in a field. When one of the brothers recognizes him Śiva vanishes and his body parts are distributed into these remote temples. To travel to these sacred places, touch the ground where so many people have come before and feel the energy of these powerful places is transformative, unforgettable and truly life-changing. Here is just a small glimpse into an experience that is beyond language.

As char dham finished Kedarnath opened the portal to knowing Śiva more intimately. 

The chaos of horses and steep steps, tea shops and altitude sickness brought us to his hump in Kedarnath. With Nandi looking on with sweet and unwavering devotion we walked into the inner sanctum and placed our heads down into the ground of being as awareness. 

From the ground Śiva took us to the spacious beauty and transcendence of Kalpeshwar. We drove through countless waterfalls seeing his hair cascading down the mountains preparing us for the journey of getting lost in the ecstasy of his locks. 

The steep and intense tapas of climbing over the pass to get a glimpse of his face at Rudranath on Vijayadaśamī will forever be in these bones. Meeting his wolf eyes glowing with fierce intensity, childlike awe and contagious laughter are etched in my heart. 

Amma sprinkles our heads with water and blesses us. I throw myself at her feet with uncontainable gratitude, joy and love. I look back and thank Śiva for bringing me to Amma and Amma for bringing me to Him. 

The electricity of Tunganath with his heart, chest and arms penetrated my right and then left side with heat. As I brought my head down to rest in the cool water lightning bolted through my being. 

Listening to the hum of Madhu Ganga brought sweetness and irresistible beauty as we climbed towards his navel at Madhamaheshwar. Feeling the energy of earth coming up and down through me I connected to the energy of earth, sky and the reality that I am everything and nothing all at once. The mountains see me, I see them and we collapse into one. Śiva puts us through fire and ice to test our endurance and resilience, and He welcomes us quietly into his loving embrace. 

Hara hara mahadev!